This is what is supposed to happen…

As it turns out, it seems as if Cubana sells seats on scheduled routes and then tries to figure out how to actually fulfill what they have sold at a later stage. This led to us being carted away from the airport on a bus to a four star hotel, and left without any information re what happened or will happen. We never quite got down to the very bottom of the issue, but it is likely a combination of

• no kerosene: Fidel and Chavez had a long standing deal and friendship which ensured regular fuel shipments from Venezuela. Since Chavez’s death and the drop in oil price and the chaotic situation in Venezuela (3 day work weeks due to lack of electrical power) the supply chain seems to be much more complicated
• technical issues: we flew Tupolev 204, somehow I felt like I may as well put on the life jacket before take-off, just in case… when leaving Havana I saw one plane near the terminal and five in the hangar for repair
• flight management Cuban style: I really think they arrange their schedule based on load very close to departure, regular Cubana flyers must be used to the hotel routine
• staff motivation: not sure if this includes captains and crew, but we saw very few motivated employees, average salary is 20 EUR per month and no real incentive or motivator to do a good job

On the way from Santo Domingo we finally got to our room at 1:30 am, were woken up at 4:30 am, and then departed at 9:00.

Not so easy to be alive at 4:30 in the morning

Indeed life is better at the beach than stuck in Boca Chica

Amazing practice in the virtue of patience. On the way out we stayed with guests from 3 other flights in the Memories Miramar Habana, a nice enough 5* hotel with tennis, a large pool and some music (regular price 400 EUR / night !!!).

http://qcostarica.com/70-costa-ricans-stranded-in-cuba-airline-says-there-is-no-fuel-to-fly-them-home/

We were left for days without any sign of life from Cubana, stranded in this hotel. We have learned to be flexible and would have enjoyed our time in Havana, BUT: we were not allowed to leave as we were waiting for instructions from Cubana, which were still “wait until we tell you when the flight will leave”. We did get amazing light shows from the nightly thunderstorms:

Ultimately, it felt like being in prison, albeit a very nice one. After 48 hours and no sign of kerosene anywhere I realized that we may be here for much longer – so I took the initiative, took a taxi to the airport, asked around for any Cubana staff I could find and eventually found the “flight operations supervisor”, the man apparently in charge of arranging for planes to actually take passengers from Havana to their destinations. 10 min later I had tickets on Copa Airlines to go via Panama to San Jose in Costa Rica. Off we went, in style, drinking champagne in business class, our surfboards safely below and amazing Cuban memories.

One piece of paper can work wonders…

traveling in style

What if…
the water sports centre would be open and you could rent all the water sport gear that they have had in the shack?
the snorkels and masks were in perfect condition…?
the salsa teacher would be there every day…?
the staff would thrive to make the guests happy…?
the cocktails were twice as big?
the electrician, the salsa teacher, the coconut man and the receptionists were not all the same person?
the rooms would not smell mouldy?

Somehow the staff was not motivated to make it a beautiful place and to see guests happy.

We spend our days snorkeling, swimming, playing, reading, writing and meeting lots of wonderful people.
And dancing salsa. Basic. But starting enjoying it.

cayo levisa view from snorkeling site

After 3 days we were ready for some more exploring…

where to go

From Havana we explored a bit the countryside. Viñales is a  small town in the mountains surrounded by lush green jungle.

We live the very basic pleasures. Swimming in the river, surrounded by pigs and piglets, oxes passing by…

Time to meditate and think about what is. From the distance, many days would look the same, many people, many waves, many encounters. But when you take the time to get closer, to explore, to dive into, you find new unexpected treasures.

We thought it is worth exploring the famous Cuban cigar production. And this is where this famous cigar got rolled:

In Vinales, we stayed in a casa particular. At this time of the year, it is easy to find a place. We loved our stay at Edouardo. It is calm with a stunning mountain view, they cook lovely food and are very helpful arranging transfer and trips:

Various travellers mentioned Soroa as a beautiful place in the countryside. When we approaching Soroa, we were expecting a kind of main road, but all we found was a few houses and a 60s style hotel.

Art gallery and B&B in a tranquil garden

Our casa particular is an art house situated in a lush garden. On our exploring walk along the main road, we discover an amazing water fall with several natural pools.

We endulge in tranquil jungle, less than 100 km away from the bustling busy Havana. The next day we explore on horseback, like the locals…

family ride

up on the hill, looking to the Caribbean Sea

nice place for a farm, getting coconut water with a stick

chilling on the farm, muy muy simple

On the way back to Havana, we get a glimpse again of life in the countryside:

a very rare sight

this is the more common one

or this, the real cruisers built between 1949 and 1958

given the choice, we pick the coolest ones

next

There was even Rolf with a kite school, who told me that the kite school is closed and that he spends the summer in Germany as the weather is unbearable….

Landed in Havana, we try to get a feel for the country. Everything looks like in the 50s. The look of the airport officials definitely is different from all other parts of the world we have seen: the girls where a brownish uniform with extra short skirts, black net stockings and high heels. The picture gets its final touch by very red nails and lipstick… While waiting for our luggage we realise that everybody uses the luggage allowance to its full capacities. Lots of tyres and air conditioning units are circling together with the luggage. It looks like the Cuban supply chain is depending on the individual efforts of each person.

Havana is hot and sunny. Our driver brings us to our casa particular, an apartment close to the old town. I found it through a Cuban travel service, thinking this may help to avoid a bad surprise. But when the driver told us we had arrived, I could not hide the shock to my system: It is one of the major avenidas (San Lazaro) and the houses are in a condition, that you could see the sky through the roof, no windows, no doors,….

The view from our casa particular

We went up to the apartment, which was in better condition that the rest of the house, and got welcomed by the whole family including the kids, who awaited us with juice and lots of kisses.

The functionality was basic, the decoration done with love and care…

Coming out of the house, our nose had to get used to piles of garbage in the heat…

Exploring our neighborhood

Havana is stunning. It has a touch of Spain from the ancient times, a touch from America with all the great old timers from the 50s and a touch of communism with little food diversity in the shops and lots of old buildings left in their original state.

Shopping for food

Time nagging at historic buildings

Havana street life

50s alive

Pure digital detox. It feels like we are showing the kids how it was “when we were young”. What a difference without internet!
The people are all out on the street, opening their doors and windows, talking to each other, playing together, playing music, doing art, dancing,…
The life seems to happen right here and not in the device in our hands.

Everywhere we are chasing the differences to our life, the things we are used to, but don’t exist here.
This is the only advertising we came across:

Che Guevara

We walk around the old town and talk to people to find out more about their lives. Everywhere is Che Guevara and his values. It touches me deeply to see how he committed his life to a vision. Although he was Argentinian, he became the hero of Cuba together with Fidel Castro.

the value map

His monument is amazing, as it looks like the Madonna in Rio, just that it has some little details different: one hand in the pose of holding a cigar, in the other a cuba Libre…

The heat is exhausting, so we decide to cruise around in one of the many oldtimers, 55 Chevy Belair.

Ready to travel in time

Traveling back in time

The people love to talk to the tourists, talking about the rest of the world and trying to be helpful and creative.
Like the guy, who did some Simpsons portraits of us

There is diversity in style and expression.

Walking in style

salsa girl

colour it up

We explore Havana at day and night. Havana is full of salsa music and dancing everywhere. We sign up to private dancing lessons and dive into a Havana night. By cadillac we cruise to a casa de musica to find out, that it was closed as the ceiling caved in a few days earlier – ooopsss. So we cruised to the Casa de la Musica in the fancy suburb Miramar. Everybody was dressed up in tight dresses and fancy 50s style clothes, except for Gerry in his jeans and flipflops.

Everybody was sitting at little tables and listening to the salsa. An amazing band with about 12 guys was playing live on stage, while the audience just got up next to their table and danced like out of control. Nobody stayed in their seats, so we decided to do the same and shake it up.

Cuban night out

Miramar casa de la musica

I guess the skirts have to be short or tight….

Cuban style

You also can find great restaurants with amazing cocktails etc., but at European pricing. We loved 304 and El del frente.

What is Cuba….?

…Officer girls at the airport with short uniforms and black net stockings underneath
… Buena Vista Social Club music everywhere
…dancing is key for the men to win a girl’ heart. No salsa. No way.
…old street cruisers everywhere in all colours and various brands
…art, music, culture everywhere.
…main food is rice with black beans and chicken.
…bad coffee
…beautiful lush green country side
…quick fixes everywhere
…kids dressed up to the limit
…mojitos and daiquiris and fresh lemonade

….
Good to know….

Restaurants
There are tourist restaurants and local restaurants, where tourists could go as well. In these restaurants you can eat a full menu for 0,75 EUR.

Salaries
The salaries are incredibly low. It equals about 50 EUR a month for a teacher etc.

Toilets
Most of the time in public places toilet paper is provided from a lady sitting at the entrance and heavily expecting tip for that piece of rough paper. You get used to doors that would not close or missing toilet seats. You feel already lucky, if the water is coming down the toilet….

Donations
The Cubans found many ways to get some extra money from tourists. We like it, when the museums are free of charge, someone might join us and give us a private tour with many great insights.